White
In both Japan and China, white symbolizes purity. This is common for clothing in many cultures around the world, as white clothes will naturally show dirt and stains. Clean, white clothing is a sign of status. White corresponds with metal in the theory of five elements. One interpretation is that metal is obtained by removing impurities from ore until only the usable metal is left.
In Japanese culture, white is connected to masculinity, victory, and devotion. For example, in sumo wrestling competitions, the winning wrestler is called a “white star.” Similarly, “white rat” signifies a loyal servant with meritorious behavior. Using color metaphors is a quick way to assign values to all kinds of social roles. However, white is also widely used in feminine performances. Geisha performers wear elaborate clothes and hairstyles, as well as use white makeup to strikingly color their faces. In Noh theater, male actors wear white masks to represent young women.
In Chinese culture, white is associated the season of autumn, and the direction of west, in addition to the element of metal. In ancient times, white clothes could be considered fashionable as well as ceremonial. White was often worn to auspicious events and solemn occasions. In one written account from the 3rd century BCE, Prince Dan of the Yan kingdom wore white as he sent off an assassin to kill his rival. An account from around the same time in the Confucian classic Book of Rites stipulates that, “One may dress in pure white, only if their parents pass away.” For over two thousand years, white clothes have been the primary symbol of mourning.
Robe
China
1988.03.E.1
Silk robes that feature a central medallion design duplicated twice in the bottom fringe became popular in China during the early 20th century. This medallion shows a common motif in Chinese art: two dragons chasing a flaming pearl.
Mask
Japan
2017.03.E.0005
Many styles of masks are used in Noh theater. Masks with a strikingly white face and red lips depict a young female character. The blackened teeth represent a beautification practice called ohaguro.
Box
China
1986.04.E.383
Elephant ivory has been carved into boxes, figurines, and all kinds of ornaments for thousands of years in China due to its beautiful color. However, elephants are nearing extinction due to over-hunting, which has changed the meaning when it is displayed as fashion.
Elephant ivory is subject to the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES), an international treaty that regulates and prohibits the trade of protected species. The displayed object is legal because it was created before 1970 when CITES went into effect.
Explore the other colors in this exhibit:
