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Black is traditionally associated with the element of water. In the I Ching, the divination guide dating back to 1000 BCE, the ancient Chinese associated black with the color of heaven. Some scholars believe this association is based on the darkness of night sky, while others see it as a connection between liquid water on the ground and gaseous water as clouds in the sky.

Chinese mythology placed the Emperor of Heaven in the sky, symbolized by the North Star. Because of this association, black was considered the king of colors by many artists and authors. This appreciation of black extended into ritual life, as black has longest history of use in traditional worship practices. An example of the importance of black in religion is the ancient Chinese Taiji diagram which uses black to represent the concept of yin, the passive principle in Daoist philosophy.

During the Xia, Shang, and Zhou dynasties, black was recognized as a noble color, symbolizing power, control, and high social status. This was partly due to the production conditions and technical limitations at the time—black dye was not easy to obtain, and so only kings or high-ranking officials could afford to wear black. Emperor Qin Shihuang, the first emperor in Chinese history, used black textiles to make the royal dragon robes that exemplified his noble social status.  Black was also a traditional high-status color in Japan used to denote formality. The esteem for black extended to other forms of beautification, such as the traditional teeth blackening practice of ohaguro.

In modern East Asia, especially in Japan, black has become widely used for funerals and other memorial events for the deceased. This has been partly due to influences from European and American cultures, and partly due to the decreasing importance of sacred power, represented by white, and the increasing importance of secular power, represented by black.


Black Japanese Coat

Coat
Japan
1986.04.E.146

The haori is a short jacket that is traditionally worn over a kimono. It is a conspicuous article of clothing to display colorful patterns, as well as symbols representing family lineages.


Black silk jacket with embroidered flowers

Jacket
China
1986.04.E.217

Made of high-quality silk, this outer garment for women is reversible. Made almost 100 years ago, the use of silk and the quality of the embroidery reflect the high status of the original owner.


Small cylindrical silk box with a string loop at the top

Wallet
China
1986.04.E.565

This cylindrical wallet was typically worn hanging from a belt. Small objects, such as coins or seals, could be kept inside while also displaying personal symbols.


Explore the other colors in this exhibit: